Having this thing in my hands, though, is producing three trains of thought: 1) Holy moly this is actually happening!, and 2) Why wouldn't I just order the flush-mount-style body? I already have a floating-trem guitar and it's a pain in the @$$ to keep up with the maintenance, and 3) I could write a song where the riffs are structured specifically so that I could only play it by changing the low string mid-song from E to D or vice versa. I could go back and forth on the floating trem body routing idea, but I think I'm learning to trust my gut on this, at least until I can try this thing out next week.
So in the last post, I was stopped dead in the tracks over the issue of the Strat headstock shape for the neck. I'm mostly clear on the other stuff I'm looking for, so I'll attempt to move down the Warmoth custom build page with a brief description why:
1. Construction Type: Warmoth Pro Construction
A double-expanding truss rod for more stability, which adjusts on the side of the neck close to the body, is a winner in my book. Ever tried doing a truss rod adjustment behind the nut when your Floyd Rose is already locked into place? It's stupid.
2. Shaft Wood / Fingerboard Wood: Birdseye Maple
Because it's beautiful and will keep the brightness of the guitar. Warmoth offers a "standard" grade and AAA grade birdseye maple. I'd really like to go with the latter. The difference in price jumps from $193 to $357. Yowzers!
3. Unique Choice
This section allows for buyers to choose a specific plank of wood that Warmoth may have on hand in their shop. I may call them to clear up some confusion, but I don't expect to need to opt into this. As long as I've got birdseye maple for the neck and fingerboard, I'm golden.
4. Nut Width: 1-11/16" (43 mm)
Whoa. This is perhaps the most important tech consideration as this (along with the size of compound radius) will determine the correct nut complement to the Floyd Rose bridge. 1-11/16" is considered the standard size for most guitars. I checked and my Jackson does have this configuration, so I'm happy here.
5. Orientation: Right Handed
6. Back Contour: Standard Thin
Warmoth's Standard Thin contour runs from .800" at the first fret to .850" at the twelfth. I like a slim, fast neck—but not too slim, like the way Ibanez RG's are. The Wizard profile does look interesting, though (.750" to .820"). I'll need just to do just a bit more research on my own guitars, including my incredibly comfortable Gibson Explorer, before sticking to anything.
7. Fingerboard Radius: 10-16" Compound
YESYESYESGIMMEGIMME the compound radius! This means that the shape of the neck flattens out as you move up, which makes it comfortable for chords in the lower register and better suited for soloing in the upper register. It's one of the reasons why I love my Jackson so much. Their standard compound radius size sits at 12-16", but I'm expecting Warmoth's 10-16" compound to be a little more forgiving on my fingers.
This is also a factor that affects which nut I will need to order for the Floyd Rose.
8. Fingerboard Length: 22 Frets
Warmoth's standard. No more than 22 frets needed. I don't intend to go all Marty Friedman on this thing. Keeping a standard fingerboard length will help me with matching the body and pickguard, which I've already picked out.
9. Scalloping: HELL NO.
Hey Yngwie, did you catch the time? Yeah, the '80s are over. Put the leather away.
10. Binding: ???
My gut reaction tells me no because it might detract from the look of the birdseye maple for both neck and fingerboard. Also, the $110 charge is pretty hefty. I need more time to think through on this one.
11. Fret Size: Stainless Steel Jumbo (SS6150)
The stainless steel adds $20 to the cost, but hopefully should save money in repair costs in the long run compared to standard nickel/silver fret wire. The jumbo size matches my Jackson. Warmoth does offer a specialty SS6115 jumbo which adds an extra peak at .004"... I think I should just stick to what I know.
12. Tuner Hole Size: ???
I just want whatever will correctly fit the same tuners that are on my Jackson (I bet you're sick of hearing about this guitar by now, eh?). The tuners on that are smooth acting, not ornate, and never touched after I lock at the nut. I'm pretty sure I'm looking for Schaller tuners.
13. Inlay: Dots
Oh gosh, I totally had no expectations for this one and there are a whole bunch of options... Dots this time around; no sharkfin inlays. One can't go wrong with black dots on a maple fingerboard, and it would match the black hardware intended for the guitar, but on the other hand, abalone does look pretty sweet... Need some more time on this one.
14. String Nut: Floyd Rose R3 Prep
The R3 prep will match with the 1-11/16" neck width and work with the 10" radius as part of the compound radius configuration. The nut itself would come in directly with the Floyd Rose bridge rather than pre-installed on the neck.
15. Mounting Holes: Standard 4-Bolt
16. Finish: Clear Gloss
I've read and heard the debates over whether a player of the Shred persuasion should choose a satin finish for a "faster" feel. I've only recently come to understand how/why players go for that, but I think it looks ugly, or plain at best. Also, players tend to talk as if gloss finishes are evil because they claim that their sweat sticks to the neck. However, I've always loved the look and feel of a gloss finish and I don't have corrosive sweat. The birdseye maple will look exceptionally sweet with gloss over it.
It's late and I'm tired. Enjoy this new Failure jam.
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